The fuse for the radio blew out in my Ford Contour. The fuse in there now is a 7. Is there any danger in using a 10? I recently bought fuses and used up all the 7. You can use a higher amp fuse, and it will work. However,it will not so what it is designed to do, which is to blow when the current draw exceeds the level the radio is designed for.
In other words, the radio will now protect the fuse by blowing first. FIX whats wrong. Trending News. Hailey Bieber endorses Biden — while dad backs Trump. Trump turns power of state against his political rivals. Beware of appropriation posing as a costume. Dak Prescott suffers awful-looking ankle injury.
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Audio Fan Lv 5. How do you think about the answers? You can sign in to vote the answer. Still have questions? Get your answers by asking now.A question I often get is, "Why is my fuse blowing". There are many reasons this can happen and there are many fuses that can be blowing out.
Some of these problems are outside of the amplifier and are relatively easy to hunt down. Others are inside the amplifier and cannot be seen while the amplifier is installed. However these internal problems usually show external symptoms and a knowledgeable installer or technician can make a good guess on what is wrong based on these symptoms.
For this article I've asked Perry Babin to explain what these common problems are for all of the fuses in a car audio amplifier installation. Perry is the webmaster of Basic Car Audio and Electronics and a professional amplifier repair technician with over twenty years experience.
He's also created a huge tutorial on repairing car audio amplifiers and I've included a banner link at the end of his article that will take you directly there. You can also use the text link right below the banner.
His tutorial is the only one I personally recommend for anyone wanting to truly learn hands-on, practical amplifier repair. In the following images, the green indicators show whether voltage is present or not. If it's bright, there is voltage present. When dark, there is no voltage on that point in the circuit. When a fuse is blown, there is voltage on only one side of it. When the fuse isn't blown, the voltage is the same on both terminals of the fuse.
In the image below, you can see that there is voltage on every point. This shows that there are no blown fuses. Click the images to open a higher resolution version in a new window. If the battery fuse blows 'as soon as it's inserted into the fuse holder' amplifiers offthe problem could be anywhere in the power distribution line. If the system is set up as shown below, and the fuses in the dblock are not blowing, the problem is likely a direct short to ground between the main fuse block and the dblock.
It's not likely beyond the dblock because the fuses in the dblock are not blowing and they are rated to pass less current than the main fuse.
If the problem were beyond the dblock, it's more likely that the fuses in the dblock would blow first. If the main fuse isn't blowing but one of the fuses in the dblock is blowing, that tells you that there is a problem beyond the distribution block. It could be that the wire feeding the amplifier is shorted to ground or there is something wrong with the amplifier. If you can see the entire length of the wire, make sure the insulation is intact.
If you cannot see all of the wire, disconnect it from the amp and see if the fuse blows when it's inserted into the fuse holder. If it does not blow, the wire is fine and there's probably something wrong with the amplifier. With more experience, you'll be able to test for a short with an ohm meter. If the fuse in the amplifier is blowing, the problem is almost certainly in the amplifier. If the fuse is blowing as soon as power is applied to the amplifier with no power applied to the remote turn-on terminalthe amplifier likely has power supply problems.
Generally this means that the power supply FETs are shorted or the reverse protection diode is shorted. The FETs in the switching power supply generally fail when the amplifier is connected to an ohm load that's too low. If a fuse only blows AFTER the remote terminal has power applied, it's likely that the amplifier has shorted output transistors. The amplifier could also have problems like a shorted winding on the transformer or shorted rectifiers.
If the fuse only blows after the amplifier is switched on AND the volume is turned up, there could be a problem with the speakers or the speaker wiring. The reason the amp doesn't blow fuses when the volume is all of the way down is because there is no voltage on the outputs and therefore no current through the short circuit.Mobile Edge has been selling and installing car amplifiers since In this post we will cover 7 different things to consider when buying a car audio amplifier.
Before you plop down your cash, do yourself a favor and check the fuses. It is simple physics. Average voltage of your vehicle may be around Lets say the amp is fused at 50 amps and it is a class AB. Simple math says that it will produce That is about the most that an AB amp fused at 50 amps can produce. Normally, you will find that the better quality amplifiers will advertise a more exact rating.
Check the fuse and do the math to make sure you are getting what you pay for. For more detailed information, check out this post and this video. Buyer Beware! Be sure that you are getting a warranty on your amplifier! Many manufactures will not honor a warranty unless the amp was purchased from an authorized retailer. When their product is sold by one of their dealers, they know where the product was from the time it left their factory.
When it is sold by an unauthorized dealer, the manufacturer has no way of knowing where the product has been or what might have been done to it. How could they offer a warranty on something that was not under their control?
Before buying an amp from anywhere, be sure to verify that the seller in question is indeed authorized. If they are not authorized, you really need to think twice before making a purchase.
Technology has moved along nicely in the past decade and there are many small even tiny! A lot of good amplifiers come in small packages. Make sure it will fit where you want it to fit!Hello everybody, recently i bought car amplifier for repair and decided that im gonna replace my Sony XM that i have been running as my subwoofer amplifier for a year now.
I took this opportunity to write instructable on how to properly hook car amplifier for use inside of your house connected to mains voltage and what you should be careful about. There are many reasons why you would want to use car amplifier, but if you can choose between proper vv amplifier and car amplifier i would suggest you to pick house amp, its power supply is well designed and you will get proper power output out of it.
Car amplifiers are mostly rated at 14,4V and lower impedances 1 or 2 ohm for example while some home amplifiers can only go as low as 4 ohms. Since you will be running it off 12V power supply more about that in further steps you might not get as stable power as you would in your car.
If you however still choose car amplifier then continue reading as i will try to provide as many information about it as i can. I've been running car amplifiers in my room for 6 years or so, it used to be hard to get proper amplifier and if u were like me you probably had spare ATX power suplies so you could save a few bucks on that. These days it's much cheaper and easier to just get 24V chip amp from ebay and have decent setup.
Even designing and building your own, internet is full of schematics that are just waiting to be built.
Car Audio Amplifier Blowing Fuses
If you already have amplifier you can just skip this step. If you still haven't got one and you are thinking about buying it there are few things to consider. Most people are using class AB on mids and highs midrange speakers and tweeters while going for class D on subwoofers. Reasons for this are that class AB has better sound characteristics. There is a lot of discussion about this so i'm not gonna go there, but main difference between them is power consumption.
This is thing to consider when choosing PSU and desired output power. On last 2 pictures you can see difference between GZTA 4.
Both amps were set to 20V output about W to 4ohm dummy loadclass AB is drawing This means that by using same power supply next step you can get more power with class D amp.
Since you have your amplifier, you need 12V power supply to power it up. Only downside is they provide only 12V and not 14,4V. This means you are gonna get a bit less power than your amplifier is rated at some are rated at 12V and at 14,4V, some only at Other alternative is to get 12V power supply for LEDs or other things.
These have small potentiometer so you can adjust voltage a bit higher, usually from V. PC ATX usually requires green wire to be connected to negative terminal to power on.
You can use simple switch to short them together. You will also need to cut off connectors and bundle together all 12V wires and Ground. Modifying ATX power supply for 14V output can be done if you have some electronic knowledge, but if you dont then you shouldn't be opening one. They contain capacitors that are charged up to mains voltage and can be deadly. For this reason i'm not gonna go further, if you are good with it you wont have any problems with it since its as easy as changing few resistors.The manu.
They usually design the circuits with a safety margin but doubling the size of the fuse is a bad idea. If it doesn't work after the 40 something is fried in there. On another note if an amp is blowing the speced fuse either it's already NFG or wired wrong.
I bought a car on Craigslist and the guy was so sure it was an easy fix. So he had the old title when he bought the car himself and signed it but he never transferred the title in his own name Stopped at a stoplight five cars back car rear ended me he was doing 40 miles an hour his airbag went off mine didn't.
I told my buddy he prob fried his amplifier was toast be Can you put bigger fuses in car amplifiers? I told my buddy he prob fried his amplifier was toast because he put a 40 in when it said 20 right on the amp. Report Follow. Best Answer Mark helpful. Your Answer:. Upload Photo Photo optional. Related Questions. Start a new General question. Sell Your Car Yourself With a simple, secure transaction.
Get Started. Search General Questions. General Experts. Find great deals from top-rated dealers TM Search.When an electrical component stops working the fault may be in the component, in the electrical circuit or in the fuse that protects them. Because the fuse is a likely cause, and the easiest to check, look at it first. The fuses are usually grouped in a box or on a panel with a cover.
Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Fuse Box
Ideally, the box should be fixed in an accessible place — such as the bulkhead under the bonnet. Often, however, it is hidden away, perhaps under the dashboard or down in the front knee-well.
The car handbook usually gives the location, but without a book finding the box can prove difficult. Get to know where it is before anything goes wrong.
How to Properly Hook Up a Car Amplifier Inside the House
The individual fuses in the box are usually numbered, so that sorting out which one may have blown is simplified by referring to the numbered list in the handbook. This should tell you which fuse protects which circuit. Depending on the fuse design, it is sometimes possible to tell whether it has blown by holding it up against a light; a break in the wire inside may be visible. Another clue is blackening of the glass cover.
If there is no visible sign, check by fitting another fuse of the same rating; if that cures the trouble, then the fuse was to blame.
However, it is always advisable to check the circuit also, in case a fault in it caused the fuse to blow. For example, failure of an electrical component or damaged insulation on a cable can cause a short circuitresulting in a sudden massive increase in current. If the cable overheated, there could be a fire. The fuse prevents that happening, because its thin wire will melt and break the circuit long before the cable itself can heat up and burn.
Some cars have only two fuses. One rated at about amps protects components wired through the ignition switch — flashers, wipers, heater-motor and instruments. The other, probably rated at about amps, protects components not wired through the ignition — hornsinterior lights and the cigarette lighter.
Where a single fuse protects a number of circuits and keeps blowing, each circuit must be checked individually to discover which one is faulty. To find the faulty one, fit a sound fuse while all the relevant components are switch ed off. Now switch them on one at a time - the circuit with the fault will blow the fuse.
Always replace a fuse with one of the same rating. Replacing, say, a 10amp fuse with a 30amp one could result in considerable damage. The 10 amp fuse would normally protect a circuit carrying 7 amps: a 30 amp fuse would allow a 30 amp current to flow through, with possibly a disastrous effect on the unit or cable it was supposed to protect. Pull out the suspect fuse and, using fine emery paper, clean off any dirt or corrosion from the inside contact surfaces of the clips.
Make sure the new fuse has the correct amp rating for the circuit See How car electrical systems work ; use fine emery paper to brighten the metal caps at each end. The Video Course teaches you everything about modern cars. The fuse-box. Where they are not numbered, take out each fuse in turn and see which component stops working.A fuse box is the box that houses the fuses and relays of an electrical system. In automotive applications, there is usually a primary fuse box that contains the high voltage engine and fuses and relays, along with a secondary fuse box that contains the fuses and relays to the accessories.
Most vehicles also have a fuse box inside of the vehicle, usually located beneath the dash that houses the fuses for the interior electronics and accessories. While most fuse panels are built to last, they can sometimes encounter issues and cause problems with the operation of the vehicle.
Usually a problematic fuse box will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential issue. One of the first symptoms of a problem with the fuse box is fuses blowing frequently.
If the fuse box has any sort of wiring issues, such as a short, it may cause the fuses to blow frequently. The vehicle may blow the same fuse repeatedly for no apparent reason. The fuse box may have to be disassembled, or removed in order to determine if this is the issue. Another symptom of a bad or failing fuse box is loose fuses. A damaged terminal with a loose fuse may cause electrical problems such as sudden, intermittent power loss to certain accessories or lights.
Another, more serious symptom of an issue with the fuse box is burned fuses or terminals. If the terminals or fuses become overheated for any reason they may overheat and burn up. The terminals, or the plastic that makes up the housing may become burned or melted, which will require the panel to be replaced, and in some cases even rewired. While many fuse boxes will last the life of the vehicle sometimes they can develop issues and require service.
If your vehicle is displaying any of the symptoms above, or you suspect that your fuse box may need to be replaced, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to determine if the fuse box should be replaced.
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Fuses blow frequently One of the first symptoms of a problem with the fuse box is fuses blowing frequently. Loose fuses Another symptom of a bad or failing fuse box is loose fuses.
Burned fuses or terminals Another, more serious symptom of an issue with the fuse box is burned fuses or terminals.How to Fix Electrical Problems in Your Car (Ground Fault)
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